Viva México!

Mexico has been on my list of places to visit for long time, however, I ended up discarding it every time, because I thought it was not suitable for a solo vacation, boy I was wrong!

Surely, there are areas that are to be avoided, and certainly in Mexico City, or DF as it is commonly referred to, one should be careful, but not significantly more than you would be in any other big city. Now, maybe I have been lucky, maybe me being a city girl and used to be mindful of certain things, I didn’t make fatal mistakes, so I don’t want to dismiss all concern and say, go straight in, but I do want to encourage other women to take the plunge and explore this amazing country without having to worried about being chaperoned.

My tour started Mexico City where I spent four nights. For three nights I stayed in the beautiful area called Polanco: green, you can walk everywhere, cafes, restaurants, it is truly vibrant. I stayed at Pug Seal Tennyson, a lovely boutique hotel with great customer service. They have other hotels in town and I am planning to try out a different one when I will be back in June for a wedding (long story, maybe for another time). My last night I went to Condesa, just to try out a different area. It was really nice as well, although not as green as cosy, but many great spots here too. One restaurant I would recommend, which is a bit different, is Lardo. I stayed at Condesa DF, a nice, although fairly weird hotel. I enjoyed it, but I wouldn’t necessarily go back.

There’s so much to see in the capital, that it would be crazy to try to list it all, especially since there are plenty of guides for that (I always start with a Lonely Planet and go from there), but maybe the one thing I enjoyed the most was the walk in Coyoacan a really quaint area, which used to be a village and you can feel it. Of course I visited the House of Frida Kahlo, which is just there and thoroughly enjoyed the visit, but what I retained more than that was the very simple lunch at the mercado. Museums are impressive, especially the Palacio de Bellas Artes, which is a jewel in itself. Diego Rivera’s murals are glorious and so is Plaza de la Constitucion. However on the last one I would say, be careful and choose the quietest time you can, because the square and the surroundings become incredibly busy and loud, uncomfortably so.

Food is excellent in Mexico City, there are so many restaurants to choose from for all budgets and tastes. My favourite one, for the whole experience has been Restaurante Antiguo San Angel Inn. An hacienda converted into a restaurant, set in a beautiful location with a glorious old-fashioned atmosphere.

While in Mexico City, I also went to Teotihuacan, the archaeological site of the Pyramids of the Sun and the Moon. It’s an easy one day trip and it is certainly well-worth it. I was lucky to visit the site on a breezy sunny day with very few tourists around, so I really made the most out of the experience. The museum there is also a very valid addition to the visit. Also don’t miss out on the very charming restaurant that is close to the site, La Gruta. Yes is touristic, but it’s really unique and the food it very good.

From DF, I travelled north using buses. There are many different companies operating buses linking most cities and travelling great distances. I always used Primera Plus, as it was recommended by a friend and I found it just impeccable. The vehicles are very comfortable and have free Wifi, before you set off you are offered a bottle of water and a snack and, in my experience they are always extremely punctual. One additional benefit is that from DF Primera Plus leaves from Patio Santa Fe, which is a nice shopping mall in a nice area of town as opposed to the other companies that leave from Estacion Norte, which is apparently not that safe. (ETN is the other company leaving from Patio Santa Fe, I haven’t tried, but apparently it is as good).

The towns I visited are Queretero, San Miguel de Allende and Guanajato, all nice all interesting. InQueretero I was with Mexican friends, so of course it was extremely enjoyable and I got to see and do things I would have not done otherwise, including a local wedding which was pretty amazing. San Miguel is charming, artsy and touristy. A different vibe altogether from Queretero which feels more like a city.Guanajato is somewhere in between the two. I would recommend them all for different reasons. They are all within a couple of hours drive, so you can slowly make your way north as I did and then go back at your own pace. I stopped again in Queretero to break the trip and spend more time with my friends. As I went back I headed directly to the airport and flew to Yucatan for the second half of my holiday.

Cancun was pretty terrible. I decided to stay two nights instead of just one, just because a friend recommended IslaMujeres describing it as a paradise island. Now, if you are in Cancun, which I would describe as a bad version of Miami, by all meansisla mujeres is a nice escape, but don’t cross the ocean to go, it’s just as loud and tacky as Cancun, just in smaller scale. The only redeeming factor of my stay in Cancun was an amazing dinner in a lovely restaurant in the old town, La Habichuela Downtown. Bottom line is: fly there, and if you are too tired to continue, then get yourself out of the zonahotelera for a nice meal and move on.

I took an Uber to go from Cancun to Tulum which was not too expensive. The ride was pleasant, but made it apparent that the coast from Cancun, all the way south is a long stretch of mega resorts, one after the other, one more monstrously big than the other (one has a roller-coaster!), until you get to Tulum. This little town has been spared by massive developed so far. However I don’t think it is for long as I saw numerous constructions. Maybe they will keep them small and upscale as they are now, but there will be manymany more in the next few years. However, as of today, Tulum is still a laidback, lovely town with numerous charming hotels on the beach nicely integrated in the environment. I stayed at the Mezzanine Colibri Hotel and at El Pez Colibri Hotel. Both hotels are part of the same group and have a similar vibe, however the first is more upscale. The best restaurants I tried were Mi Amor and Arca.

A couple of things worth mentioning:

First of all I was there in low season, so I didn’t experience crowds and I biked around easily, but I am told that the traffic is horrendous in December. There’s only one main small road that crosses the town, hence in the high season it becomes unmanageable.

Then, Tulum is expensive. I am talking Europe/US expensive. While for the hotels I managed to strike good deals (because of the low season and thanks to Booking.com genius level), restaurants prices I assume are kept the same year-round, so one dinner in a nice restaurant is no less than USD 50, and taxis have insane rates. On the other hand, entrance to attractions, such as the ancient ruins or the Cenotes are still cheap.

Finally, the sargassum, the algae that washes ashore on this coast. You will find lots of information and misinformation about the phenomenon. The truth is that it is unpredictable. It depends on the weather and the ties and while there will be better season and worse seasons, the situation can change from a month to the other and sometimes from a day to the next. Case in point, in July-August 2019 there were plenty of algae on the beach of Tulum, a month later in September, it was absolutely clean. I had 5 beautiful days, then two stormy nights brought tons of seaweed all over. They are very well equipped and deploy massive forces to clean the shore as quickly as possible, but the water may remain murky for a while.

My advice is to book your holiday without worrying too much and if worse comes to worse, you can go somewhere else. Yucatan is beautiful, there are many places I meant to visit, but I didn’t because I needed to pause a bit before going back to work. Merida, for one. The capital looks amazing, then the pyramids and you can even venture further south towards Belize. Don’t let anything discourage you from exploring Mexico, you will love it and you will come back with amazing memories.

A presto, Veronica

Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes – Diego Rivera Murales

Teotihuacan

Teotihuacan – La Gruta

Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes – Diego Rivera Murales

San Miguel de Allende

Guanajato

Cancun

Archeological Zone of Tulum – Mayan Port City Ruins

Tulum – Gran Cenote

Tulum – Mezzanine Hotel

Tulum

Sustainable travel-friendly buys

no plastic, biodegradable, reusable skin-care and self-care products

Reducing plastic is a struggle. It’s a conscious choice you need to make over and over again, when you go grocery shopping, when you buy your new moisturizer, when you grab a beverage on the go, the list goes on…

I am no expert, but I am trying as much as possible to change my habits, even the most ingrained ones, and I challenge myself to always go one step further.

My next challenge is to embark in my upcoming travel through Mexico with less plastic products and less waste. Considering that I will be gone for almost three weeks and I will be travelling with carry-on only, I also need to be mindful of space.

I will run through some of the switches that I am planning to make. Some of these products I have been using for a while and I can recommend, while others are brand new additions and I will need to see how they perform.

Cleansing: A few months ago, I bought Face Halo, reusable makeup remover pads and I am really satisfied. You wet them with water and they remove all of your makeup, done. For the eyes I still need a bit of micellar water, as my mascara is rather resistant, but that’s it. After each use I wash the pad with a gentle soap and let it dry and after a week use, I stick it in the washing machine 60 degrees, no fabric moisturizer and it comes out as new. So I will take two Face Halo with me and a mini of my favourite micellar water, which I will use as eye makeup remover and as second cleanser (at home I use a jelly cleanser as second step, but that will definitely not come with me).

Toning: At home I have been using the Pixi rose tonic, which is very gentle. I apply it using the spongy pad of the Klairs set (I use the thinner ones with micellar water to remove eye makeup) and I am very happy with the results. Also it’s less cotton wasted and far less product needed. However, for travelling I will use a spritz toner that I can apply directly on the skin. I found this lovely Tammy Fender Bulgarian rose water toner in a glass travel size bottle and it is just perfect.

Night moisturizing: from the same Tammy Fender set, I will pack the moisturizer and the oil to give some good hydration to my face after a day out in the sun.

I didn’t find any good switch for day moisturizers and SPF (when I say good, I mean a product that works for my skin and comes in a small non-plastic package), so I will go with Paula’s choice Defense Essential Glow Moisturizer SPF30 and the AvèneSPF 50+ Same for hair, I am still to find plastic-free alternatives that work for my curly hair, so I will just bring a Briogeo travel kit.

Grooming: I replaced bodywash for natural soap bars. I love those that are olive oil based like the Moroccan black soap. I am going to take with me a pretty cube that smells of ginger. I switched to Bamboo toothbrushes almost a year ago now. I tried a few brands and they have all been very suitable for me. I will be travelling with the latest purchased, but I can also recommend Lavish Essentials. Also, I have just purchased a silk floss which comes in a glass jar to replace the plasticky Oral-B, and it seems to work well. For toothbrush I am sticking to my usual Marvis mini. For my ears, I bought a pack of fully biodegradable cotton buds months ago and they are of excellent quality. I have a plastic container to transport them, which I bought years ago in the US. Recently, I also switched the disposable razors for a wooden reusable razor, it needs a bit of practice, but it works really well and it will save me a little space, as I would have brought a couple of disposables with me. Finally, since it looks like I’ll be on my period during the first few days, I will pack some of these newly tried Rael organic cotton pads, very comfortable and individually wrapped in a papery fabric rather than plastic. A really good find.

Miscellaneous: I will bring my Chilly’s bottle which is great to keep water cold for hours and is completely hermetic and leak-proof. I am not sure I’ll be able to refill with tap/filtered water, but at the very least I will be able to buy a big bottle to keep in my room and refill my 500 ml to go, instead of buying a million tiny bottles. I will also pack my lovely Paul Smith handkerchief instead of tissues, as I find that it serves me as well with no waste.

A presto

Sardinia – the paradise next door

Last time I was in Sardinia, it was August and I hated it!

Everywhere it was crowded, everything was overpriced, traffic and parking a nightmare, service generally appalling and people around were mostly loud and vulgar. I know that August is not a representation of how a place actually is, but I was left with such unpleasant memories, that I didn’t feel like I could do the trip again. However time has passed (a few years actually!) and given the chance to go on the first week of July, I did not pass on it, and I am glad I didn’t.

I was based in Golfo del Pevero, a gorgeous bay a few minutes away from the ritzy Porto Cervo, and we could simply walk to the nearest beach to enjoy crystal clear water. With a short drive (between ten and twenty minutes) one could venture to more amazing spots like Cala Liscia Ruja. I also appreciated (although I know that some would not agree) that almost everywhere there would be a beach club, or at least a chiringuito of some sort. I am not talking establishment after establishment, but merely one place for an entire bay. It means that you have the option to enjoy the beach in comfort, or, if you like to be more secluded and choose your own little nook, you still have a place you can go to if you want to grab an ice-cream, or sit down and sip on a fresh beverage. It means less cooler boxes, on the beach, which is a blessing, who can argue with that?

I tried a few restaurants in the area, some better than others, but I ate pretty well everywhere we went. La Mola is a really good pick if you are looking for an elegant restaurant with a refined menu. Il Pulcino is an old-fashioned place with a good variety of traditional dishes and Lu Stazzu was the winner with its lovely courtyard and delicious suckling pig.

For aperitivo, Hotel Cala di Volpe is an absolute treat, while if you want an Instagrammable place, Phi Beach in Baia Sardinia is for you. It’s rather a club on the beach, but it starts at sunset with people flocking in high heels and linen shirts, phones ready for a deluge of selfies.

To experience how a regular Italian beach town really is, I would recommend a walk in Cannigione, where you can eat some earthy food at Tavola Blu and shop the unnecessary at the night market.

If you get tired of lying on a beach and swim all day, take some time to visit a nuraghe. These ancient megalithic edifices, developed during the Nuragic Age (between 1900 and 730 B.C.) are typical of Sardinia and are fairly magical. I visited Nuraghe la Prisgiona which is incredibly well preserved. The staff at the sight was very helpful and shared plenty of information and anecdotes.

And finally, don’t miss out on La Maddalena. This tiny island is easily accessible from Palau, in just fifteen minutes, on ferry boats that leave every 30 minutes throughout the day. It is a natural reserve and rightly so, it’s legitimately stunning, with jaw dropping sights, topaz water and amazing spots, like Spiaggia del Relitto in Caprera. Caprera, a smaller island part of the Maddalena archipelago, linked to the main island with a bridge, was the home of Garibaldi, Italy’s national hero. It is possible to visit his home and a museum that takes visitors through his legendary life and deeds and to the events that led to the unification of Italy. A beautiful experience with a breathtaking view as a bonus.

Costa Smeralda is just a very small portion of a wonderful and diverse island, but it certainly is a big jewel in the crown. Jewels come expensive, that is clear. However, if you can afford the premium, it is well worth it. That is if you go off peak season so that you can enjoy the sea, the view, the food, the people at their best.

A presto

Golfo del Pevero, Sardinia

Liscia Ruja, Sardinia

Arzachena – Nuraghe la Sprigiona, Sardinia

Caprera – Museo Garibaldi, Sardinia

Tunisi – into Phoenician land

Only one hour flight from Rome, and you are into the blue.

Tunis is a quiet city that is overly underestimated. While the medina is not as impressive as the souks of Marrakesh, it makes it for a really pleasant walk, and some good shopping, without the hassle of the Moroccan hard sellers. On the main roads the smell of fragrant food, spices and soap fills the air; off the main roads some interesting artisanal boutiques offer unique, original pieces, Makhzen is where I found my happiness. There are hidden restaurants inside beautiful courtyards that serve delicious food and cafes perched on terraces overlooking the city where you can sip rose water scented coffee.

La Marsa, off the city centre, is where I stayed. It looks like an Italian seaside town, with the houses overlooking the shore, little cafes and restaurants all big windows and tables on the pavements. I had lunch in La Gourmandise, a chain with a few restaurants around town, pleasant, but nothing special, and brunch in Sabato and in Ivy, both pretty amazing. For dinner it was fish in a beautiful restaurant called Le Golfe, on my first evening and couscous in a very local place on the second evening.

I also had a small taste of Tunis night life at Le Carpe Diem, a very laid back place where young Tunisians (and a few expats) were dancing with lots of joy and little to no pretense to the rhythm of a local band playing Tunisian music and some well-known international songs.

Sunday was a glorious sunny day and I explored more of the coast. In Carthage, I visited the Baths of Antoninus a really beautiful and peaceful site where Roman ruins overlooking the Mediterranean make an incredible scenery. In Sidi Bou Said I was amazed by the beauty of this little hilly white and blue town, where winding roads lead to the most gorgeous panorama. The bonus was the delicious bombolone eaten on the go.

I had a really lovely long weekend left on Friday morning, back on Sunday evening. Enough to explore Tunis and surrounding, but I would definitely go back and see more of the country.

Madagascar – the unspoiled paradise

North-west Madagascar crossing the rivers

North-west Madagascar river communities

North-west Madagascar farmer with zebu

North-west Madagascar crossing the rivers

I had the fortune to visit Madagascar three times in the past two years. I went on work, which means I have not see as much as I would have as a tourist, especially considering that I was there for two months collectively, on the other hand, I visited places where no tourist has been before, and if they have, I’d be interested to hear their stories.

While the area of Nosy Be, in the north-west coast of the island, is well known and boasts a fairly developed tourism industry, the rest of the country remains rather untouched. Venturing south requires some skills to face the lack of infrastructure and flexibility when it comes to accommodation. The north-west coast is more forgiving, but still challenging.

The area around the rural town of Maroantsetra is where I have spent the majority of my time in Madagascar. It is linked to the capital with a few flights operated by Air Madagascar, all stopping at the port town of Tamatave, which is also worth a visit, before reaching the airfield in Maroantsetra.

The town has a few basic hotels and restaurants, but it comes out from a different century. Many river communities live around the banks of the river that crosses the area; canoes are the main transportation mode for goods and people and it can take up to two hours to travel what would be twenty kilometres by road, but it makes one of the most mesmerising experiences you will ever have. These little boats glide on narrow canals through rice fields, banana and mango plantations, as well as through large patches of land where farmers take their zebus and birds accompany their work. It’s a painting from the Macchiaioli with a different kind of landscape.

Back in the capital you will find all the comforts you may need, impeccable service, good food. Antananarivo is a nice city, hilly, breezy, and fairly safe during the day. The traffic is mind-blowing though.

The first two times I went I stayed at the hotel Palissandre, which is very nice, central, although not in the centre, and has probably the best restaurant in Tana.

This last time, in January, I wanted to try something different and more centrally located, so I stayed at the hotel Sakamanga. I liked the diffused hotel vibe and the garden, but it certainly is more basic and less clean, even if service was as kind and helpful as in the higher-end hotel. Food was not great. Breakfast buffet was big, but not very fresh, bar food passable and the restaurant Sakamanga upstairs is alright, but nothing to write home about.

Other restaurants I tried were Kudeta, Arirang, La Varangue, Le Carre, Chez Arnaud, which I have all reviewed on TripAdvisor as usual, as well as Vatel, which is a hotel management school with a functioning restaurant and hotel. The food is fairly good and it is very decently priced. Service is a bit clumsy, but that is normal as they are all learning.

On my way back I stopped in Paris for a day to make something out of my weekend which otherwise would have been spent entirely travelling. I simply enjoyed the city, walked around as much as possible, savouring the vibe of a place I used to call home and had an amazing meal in one of my favourite restaurants, Les Papilles. The following morning I indulged in a perfect pain au chocolate picked up at the Épicerie du Bon Marche, walked some more and headed to the airport to finally go back home.

A presto.

Back to the Slopes

I like to take a few days off during the Christmas break to rewind and start the new year on the right foot.

Last year I chose a warm city break and headed off to Marrakesh, while this year I opted for a more conventional winter choice, a ski trip.

I went to Courmayeur on 2 January and had four full days there.

Curmayeur

Curmayeur view from Mont Blanc

Curmayeur the slopes

From Rome it is quite a journey, and I would not recommend driving. Although the road is fantastic all the way to the town, it is an eight-hour journey.

If you want the freedom, but can’t be bothered with being behind the wheel for that long, I would recommend the train to Milan and a rental car from there. Turin is closer, but the Rome-Milan route is covered by the high-speed train which takes three hours.

Flying is the other option, which all in all would take the same time, if not a little longer, and it is a bit of a hassle because even if you rent the equipment you will probably have to check your luggage; mountain attire is so bulky that even I, the queen of the carry-on, can’t do hand luggage only.

Courmayeur is a cute town. It seats at the foot of the mountains so you always have those giants towering over you. Some people may find it oppressing, but I loved it, it is a constant reminder that the mountains rule, so you should respect them.

It is not your typical mountain town with basic restaurants and ski stores. It certainly was, and there are still reminders of that time, in the little square dedicated to the Alpine guides, for example, but it is now a rather ritzy destination, chosen by the wealthy of Milan and Genoa and more and more foreigners. This means that the town transformed to cater to its clientele, hence the fancy restaurants, the nice bars serving perfect drinks, the expensive jewellery stores.

This is not a bad quality for me; after skiing for several hours, having the option to relax in a lovely café and looking forward to a tasty dinner which is not necessarily fondue and potatoes, it is certainly something I am for. Also, while you will come across the vulgar man with the fake tan or the over the top woman in her cringy fur, they’ll be among a larger crowd of young people looking for sport and fun in a polished, easy environment.

The slopes are really good, long, varied. The downside is that you have sun only in the morning, and partly in the afternoon, but that in a small portion of the domain. I was in Switzerland two years ago, in Champery and if I compare, the domain there, which they call Portes du Soleil is really huge, especially if you do the pass for the Swiss and French sides, however there is still plenty of skiing to be done here.

The other advantage is that if you are in the centre you can walk to the cable car and in a few minutes you are on the slopes. They are also very organised because there are ski rentals just around the cable car and even up at destination and you can leave your equipment there at the end of the day, so you don’t need to carry around anything but your tired self.

After skiing, it is very nice to stroll around and by 5 pm the centre is buzzing with skiers happy to rest their limbs and warm up. My best finds have been Caffé della Posta for a really good aperitivo in a Frenchish environment, Petit Bistrot for crepes you will not forget and Pierre Alexis for a gourmet dinner inspired by the hearty mountain food, but made lighter and modern. Also, do not leave town without stopping at Panizzi and stock up in fresh yogurt, cheese and mocetta.

Finally an experience which should not be missed is the Skyway, a cable car that in two stops will take you up on the Mont Blanc at 3,466 metres. Saying that it is breath taking up there it is an understatement. The two stations are equipped with cafes, entertainment centres and much more, maybe even too much, but it is very interesting and having prosecco up there is fairly decadent, in a good way.

There are options for activities for adventurous skiers and trekkers as well, but I haven’t looked into it. I was happy to spend a few minutes up on the 360-degree terrace taking in one of the most gorgeous view I have even seen.

A presto

Entertaining during the festive season

Christmas bruch – Rome

For years I have thrown a Christmas party at my house around mid-December. I think it is a nice way to gather your friends before everybody is too caught up with Christmas shopping and family engagements.

A few years ago, I turned the evening party into a bubbly brunch and never got back. My friends love it, it’s very convivial and you get to spend more time socializing, that you would at an evening do. I pick a Sunday, so that I have Saturday to prepare and everybody is more chilled.

As I have a big kitchen counter in the middle of my living area, that makes the whole event very convivial, as everybody hangs around it, eating and drinking, I can cook throughout, without ever being cut off from my own guests. Also people come and go more fluidly.

On Saturday afternoon I make a few cakes, normally banana bread and a lemon cake, or an orange and cocoa cake, something breakfasty basically. I also make a cheesecake, because that is my signature dessert. I also chop some veggies, mushrooms, bell peppers, tomatoes and grate some mild cheese which I will use to make scrabbles eggs and omelets. These I put in Tupperware ready for the day after.

On Sunday morning I bake some savory muffins (cheese and bacon, and cheese) and some savory croissants with ham and cheese. I make a pancake mix and line eggs and the pans ready. Then I take everything else out: the bakes from the day before, berries, salmon and nice multigrain loaf.

As people arrive around midday, they start munching on what is on the table and I start dishing pancakes and eggs any style they want and the day goes by with people merrily eating and drinking throughout.

As I choose to accompany the food with bubbles it is important to invest in quality bottles, otherwise you’ll regret it the following day. This year I went forVeuve Clicquot, Bollinger, Jean Vesselle.

Last year I have also introduced a little raffle. I prepare little cardboards with numbers on. Each guest picks one as they come in and when someone leaves they take out a number from a bowl and whoever has that number can pick one of three presents I have prepared under the tree. I choose things everybody can enjoy, a bottle of wine, a terrine, a nice candle…

It’s a really nice and fun formula and I highly recommend you to test it.

A presto

Christmas drinks in Rome

Roma – cubblestones in evening light

Rome – Christmas

Rome – Castel Sant’Angelo evening

Roma – Fontana di Trevi

Roma – Pantheon

As we entered the first week of December, chances are that you are looking for a place to gather a few friends or colleagues for pre-Christmas drinks and if you live in Rome, options are somehow limited.

I decided to list eight places that I believe are worth considering in four central areas. The common denominator is that they are all places suitable for groups, that have a decent acoustic, which does not discourage conversation, even when they are busy, and that offer the alternative to just drink, drink and nibble and possibly have a full dinner.

Here is the list, by area and in alphabetical order.

Centro

Caffe Propaganda – if you want to be central without ending up in a tourist trap, this is your place.

The Gin Corner – on the pricey side, but perfect if you want an outstanding drink and quiet atmosphere.

Monteverde/Trastevere

Mo Mo – definitely the best choice if yours is a big group.

Seu Pizza Illuminati – not strictly falling into the categorization above as this is a pizzeria, but pizzas are very special and it is worth going in a big party to share the different flavours.

Ostiense

Mercat Bistrot – off the beaten path, even though it is in one of the busiest areas of town, offers a nice alternative to the many mediocre and overcrowded places around.

Stalin – an old time favorite of mine, the outside areas is lovely and heated in winter and it offers live music.

Prati

Madeleine – another off the beaten path place, chichi yet not pretentious.

La Zanzara – a good option for bigger groups and occasions where not everyone will eat. Also, it is right in the middle of hundred of offices.

I hope you will find your perfect place.

A presto

A Moroccan Christmas

Marrakech – Souk

Marrakech – Mustapha Blaoui

Marrakech Ryad, Palacio de las Especias

Marrakech – Cafe des Epices

Marrakech – Jardin Majorelle

Marrakech – Bahia Palace

If you are still unsure where to spend the holidays, maybe you want to consider Marrakech.

I spent a week there last year between Christmas and New Year and had a really good time. I had been to Marrakesh 10 years before and although the city still retains the ancient Oriental charm I associated it with, it is now also modern and more vibrant.

I stayed in a beautiful small Ryad, Palacio de las Especias where everyday has been magical. Walked the streets of the medina before it was too crowded (around 29 December the city got busy and by the 31 you didn’t want to be anywhere near Jemaa el-Fnaa).

While in the medina, a couple of good places to grab a bite and escape the souks are Nomad and Cafe des Epices. Touristy yes, but surprisingly good and there is something exceptionally soothing in sipping a drink, soaking the sun and gazing down at the crawling commercial streets of Marrakesh.

For a stylish modern dinner, try Foundouk and Grand Cafe de la Poste. The latter is in the new part of town, which is also worth a visit. If you want a peculiar experience, head to La Mamounia, the Christmas decorations are out of place to say the least and the luxury over the top, but it is a beautiful place to sit and watch a very special kind of world go by while having high tea.

I discovered a smaller and more authentic souk, Souk Chérifia, with several young designers boutiques, displays of Moroccan artists and beautiful caravanserai where you can find carpets, towels, lamps, dishes and literally anything to decorate your home. There you can also grab a tasty burger on the terrace of Beats Burger, would you want a break from the delicious local food.

If you want to go beyond the souks, which you definitely should, there are numerous beautiful stores like V. Barkowski. El Fenn, L’art du bain, Hanout, 33 rue Majorelle and many others. And if you want the ultimate experience don’t miss out Mustapha Blaoui. A little hard to find, but when you cross the ornate doors that leads you into this enormous cavernous store, you’ll be in Oriental shopping heaven.

As for the cultural side of the trip, the highlights have been la Maison de la Photographie, le Jardin Secret, Ali Ben Youssef Madrasa, Bahia Palace, Badi Palace, Jardin Majorelle, Musée YSL.

And when you are tired of walking, indulge in a spa treatment. I tried the Mythic Oriental Spa, which was inexpensive and correct and the more upscale Le Bain Bleu, which was very good.

Marrakech was a rather perfect holiday. I was solo for four days and a friend joined for the last three days. I went around by myself with no issue and also as two girls we were out and about hassle free.

A presto

Sri Lanka – joys and sorrows

Sri Lanka – Minneriya National Park

Sri Lanka – tea picker – Nuwara Eliya

Sri Lanka – Cave Temple

Sri Lanka – Sigiriya

I took this holiday with two friends, for two weeks in September 2017. We had a jolly good time together, but the journey in itself was an alternation of disappointments and wows. I will try to go through the goods and the bads with equal detail, hoping to help you choosing your itinerary carefully, would you decide to visit this spectacular country.

First a disclaimer, as I am always trying to keep solo travellers in mind, being often one of them. I was happy I was not alone in this journey. As a women you do experience a lot of harassment, but also in general, we came across very few tourists on self-organised holidays, the majority we met or saw around, where either couples – specifically honeymooners, as the package Sri Lanka-Maldives is sold as a combo of nature cultural trip and relaxed beach life – or people on organised tours, the busload, all-inclusive kind. This type of tourism is not conducive to meeting people, spontaneously joining itineraries or sharing meals, therefore this is not a holiday I would suggest to take alone.

The flight for me was very convenient, Rome to Colombo via Dubai with Emirates, good connection, comfortable plane and great price. Expect a short stopover in Male on the way back where the plane will pick up dozens of honeymooners, all with straw hats reading “Maldives”, all complaining about the price of a coffee at their exclusive resort.

As we got there, we had a driver waiting for us with a nice comfortable car. I got his number from friends and he stayed with us for the duration of the holiday and even if there have been days when we hardly used the car, it was still a good deal. If you want to move around in Sri Lanka you can’t rely on public transport, you need a car. Roads are not bad, but normally narrow and often heavily congested. Traffic is messy and it is not rare to see people driving opposite to the traffic direction. Therefore it is advisable to go with someone used to this kind of craziness.

Our first destination was Kandy, though on the way we stopped at the Elephant Sanctuary, which was ok, but I would not recommend it, unless you have children who would enjoy feeding baby elephants. Kandy is really scenic, most of the city overlooks an artificial lake, but it is also very chaotic and dirty, hence I was happy with my choice of an hotel perched on the hills surrounding the city, where many rather remarkable villas are located, this was the Cinnamon Citadel Kandy.

We stayed there a couple of days, the time to visit Kandy and the Temple of the Tooth. About the latter, it’s better to make sure not to go during some holy festival, as we did. The crowd can be really overwhelming and far from orderly and if you are on the short side, as I am, you know how suffocating it can be to be in the middle of a pushy crowd.

Next destination was Dambulla, for another major sight, the Cave Temple, or Golden Temple, a World Heritage site which is really impressive. The hike to get up there is demanding, especially if done in the excruciating heat, but the view is gorgeous as you go up. Once you arrive, prepare to cross the black stone courtyard barefoot and grill your feet, or be smart and slip a pair of thick socks in your bag. The five caves are stunning with frescoed walls and remarkable golden statues. The site is really peaceful and it is populated by rather well-behaved monkeys.

This time also, we stayed out of the city at the hotel Heritance Kandalama, where we loved being plunged in nature and taking walks in the surroundings, while also enjoying the hotel facilities. From there we visited Minneriya National Park.

Around the entrance of the park there are several shops, one after the other, selling tours. Therefore all you need to do, is to choose the one that better suits your likings and jump on a jeep. We were told that the best time to spot animals is early morning and evening, but only a certain number of cars are allowed in the park at any given time, so, depending on when you arrive, you may need to wait outside for a while. We were lucky and we went straight in.

The park is a jewel and our driver and guide were excellent. We saw plenty of animals and dozens of elephants, however the chase for the elephants was reckless. The drivers call each other on radio at the sight of a pack and all speed through the park to reach the spot. You end up with some 30 jeeps, 50 metres or less to the elephants, engines on, people roaring, cameras, flashes. Not only it is disturbing for the animals, but it is straight out dangerous. The elephants got so annoyed that they had started charging, thankfully after all engines were stitched off, and people asked to keep silent, the animals got a quieter and we were able to slowly leave. How to spoil an otherwise rather perfect safari.

We then moved to the east coast and that was the big mistake of this holiday. There was no redeeming factor. Trincomalee, described as a prime holiday destination offering white sand beaches, has potential, but it is in such a destitute state, that I would not recommend it. The only good experience we had there was when we rented a catamaran to go whale watching. Although we did not see any whale, only a few dolphins, it still made for a beautiful day at sea and some very nice snorkelling.

Let’s start with accommodation. Prices in Sri Lanka are completely off range. The offer is limited and you end up paying a lot more than you should, but here it was just outrageous. We first stayed in Nilaveli, in a place described as a boutique hotel, Amanta Beach, which was quirky and nice, but nothing more than a guesthouse with no real beach facilities. Then we moved in what was supposed to be a beach resort, Amaranthé Bay Resort, which was absolutely awful.

Now let’s tackle the locality. White sandy beaches, yes, infested by sand flies, at least when we were there, in September, and in the most popular spots littered with spontaneous barbeques, or worse, burning garbage.

One of the most popular sights is Pigeon Island, an islet ten minutes off the coast. They regulate admittance, they say, so they took our passports and filled in a long form before allowing us to board one of the small boats that taxi back and forth. The isle is tiny, and nothing special in itself, but it’s surrounded by corals, so it is really easy to see amazing marine life just off the shore. I had a huge sea turtle swimming next to me. The problem is that there is no boardwalk to get to the sea and people step on the corals as they plunge. And when I say people, I mean dozens, with kids, and heavy coolers, the lot. Although we were there by 9 am, in about an hour the place was completely full, literally nowhere to sit or swim. We got hold of the first available boat and left.

Thankfully, this is not how our holiday ended. We went back to central Sri Lanka to Sigiriya, which I loved. We stayed at the Hotel Sigiriya, where we enjoyed the direct view of the Sigiriya mountain.

The site includes the famous archaeological ruins balanced on top the mountain, the gardens and the Sigiriya Museum. My suggestion is to do the ruins first, as early as you manage, to avoid the crowds and excessive sun exposure, and leave the rest for later. Really the ruins are the highlight, but the gardens are pleasant and the museum worth a visit.

Climbing up the mountain is no stroll, but it’s not as challenging as it may seem when you look at it from below. The issue for me was vertigo, because there are some parts where you have to climb on really narrow stairs, mountain wall on one side and void on the other (the stairs have iron barriers and didn’t feel unsafe, this is just my personal experience, based on my own uneasiness with heights). Nevertheless I made it up and down and hopefully I did not bother people too much by asking to make a little space at times when it was harder. The view was glorious and the ruins very interesting.

We then drove south to the tea country, to Nuwara Eliya, land of daring mountains and endless tea plantations. It was just beautiful, despite the weather, they call it Little England for a reason… We stayed in one of my carefully picked middle of nowhere unique places, the Jetwing Warwick Gardens. From the hotel we took a walk through the plantations, which was one of the highlights of the trip. While there we visited the Ceylon Tea Museum, the guided tour was excellent, and we had high tea at the Grand Hotel.

After this blissful ending, we went back to Colombo, where we spent a night at the hotel Colombo Court Hotel and Spa. The following morning, as my friends left, I ventured around and I had a lovely lunch with live music at the Barefoot Café, where I also picked up some high quality crafts, before finally flying back home.

All in all, it was a good holiday and had we skipped the coast altogether, I would probably bear a much better memory of the experience. Sri Lanka has an amazing nature and great potential. You have to appreciate that they didn’t have it easy, with conflict first and the tsunami right when they were starting to recover. With time, they may become more tourism oriented and future visitors will enjoy its beauties without some of the drawbacks I experienced. I just really hope that they become more conscious of the treasures they have and learn to respect that same nature that nourishes their country.

A presto